Beyond Warsaw and Kraków: Is Szczecin Poland’s Most Underrated City?

Travel Talk with Ed Finn

Saturday, 15 August 2026 - 12 minutes

Beyond Warsaw and Kraków: Is Szczecin Poland’s Most Underrated City?

Poland has become one of Europe’s great city-break destinations, but for most Irish visitors the conversation still tends to begin with Warsaw and Kraków. On my recent visit, I discovered another Polish city that deserves considerably more attention. Szczecin, in the far northwest of Poland close to the German border, surprised me with its fascinating history, striking architecture, waterways, enormous green spaces and, perhaps best of all, its value for money.

A City Shaped by History

Szczecin has changed hands, identities and even names over the centuries. Once known as Stettin, its story encompasses the Duchy of Pomerania, Swedish and Prussian rule, Germany and modern Poland.

A great place to begin is the Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle, former seat of the Griffin dynasty which ruled the Duchy of Pomerania for centuries. From there you can explore the Old Town, Rynek Sienny and the magnificent Cathedral Basilica of St James, whose tower dominates the city skyline.

Walk the Chrobry Embankment

One of Szczecin’s great landmarks is Wały Chrobrego — the Chrobry Embankment. This monumental promenade overlooking the Oder and port is one of the best places to appreciate Szczecin’s long relationship with the water.

The waterfront and riverside boulevards are particularly lovely in summer, and one of my favourite experiences was taking a cruise along the Oder and towards Lake Dąbie. Seeing the city from the water gives you a completely different perspective on just how green and maritime Szczecin really is.

One of Europe’s Great Modern Buildings

You simply cannot miss the extraordinary white Szczecin Philharmonic. Its dramatic pointed roofline has become a modern symbol of the city, but make sure you go inside too.

The magnificent Golden Hall was one of the highlights of my visit. The building has received international recognition for its architecture and provides a wonderful contrast to the historic Szczecin you discover elsewhere in the city.

Nearby, Solidarity Square and the Dialogue Centre “Upheavals” explore the city’s turbulent 20th-century history, including Szczecin’s role in resistance to communist rule.

Go to the Movies — 1907 Style

Another place I loved was Kino Pionier 1907, which has been showing films since 1907 and is among the world’s oldest continuously operating cinemas.

It's one of those wonderfully quirky places that you remember long after a city break is over — and a reminder that Szczecin has plenty of surprises tucked away beyond its headline attractions.

Discover Green Szczecin

What really surprised me was the sheer amount of green space. Szczecin isn't simply a collection of streets and historic buildings; parks, avenues, lakes and waterways are part of the fabric of the city.

Jasne Błonia, Kasprowicz Park and the beautiful Rose Garden are worth seeking out, while the vast Central Cemetery is also renowned for its landscape architecture and park-like setting.

Three Szczecin Restaurants I Loved

One of the biggest surprises of Szczecin was its food scene. It's young, creative and full of personality, and three very different restaurants really stood out during my visit.

Bananowa Szklarnia was sensational. It's lush, lively and full of energy, with greenery everywhere, great music, excellent cocktails and an eclectic menu that changes and takes inspiration from different cuisines. When I visited, the Mexican-inspired food was absolutely delicious — colourful, fresh and packed with flavour. It's the sort of place where you go for dinner and suddenly realise several hours later that you're still there.

Szepty Concept was another discovery, taking pizza in a much more sophisticated direction. This isn't simply somewhere to grab a quick pizza; the emphasis is on quality ingredients, creative combinations and beautifully made pizzas in a stylish contemporary setting. For anyone who takes their pizza seriously, Szepty is one to remember.

And then there was Tkacka 7, a Michelin Guide recommended restaurant and a completely different experience again. This is Szczecin at its more refined — elegant cooking, beautifully presented dishes, excellent service and a menu showcasing modern Polish and European influences. My dinner here was one of the culinary highlights of the trip and demonstrated just how ambitious Szczecin's restaurant scene has become.

What I loved was the contrast: Bananowa for its energy, music and fun; Szepty for seriously good pizza; and Tkacka 7 for that special Michelin-recommended dining experience.

Three restaurants, three completely different experiences — and another very good reason to put Szczecin on your city-break list.

Look out too for Szczecin gingerbread, herring, locally roasted coffee and the city's craft breweries. Szczecin Tourism even points out one of the city's more unusual characteristics: around the waterfront you may occasionally catch the smell of chocolate drifting through the air from a nearby factory.

I also enjoyed Bananowa Szklarnia — the Banana Greenhouse, a fun contemporary restaurant and all-day dining spot that's particularly popular for breakfast, brunch and lunch, with plenty of vegetarian as well as meat dishes. The Mexican tacos that I had there were some of the best that I ever tried and the fries and Martin and Claudia are fantastic hosts - Also

Excellent Value

One of Szczecin's biggest attractions is simply how much you can do without spending a fortune. Eating out, sightseeing and enjoying a good hotel can still represent excellent value compared with many of Europe's more established city-break destinations.

I stayed at the Radisson Blu Hotel Szczecin, which provided a comfortable and very convenient base for exploring the city.

Getting There from Ireland

And here's the important bit for Irish travellers: Ryanair connects Dublin directly with Szczecin, putting this lesser-known corner of Poland within easy reach for a weekend or short break.

Szczecin also makes an interesting gateway to this part of Europe. The German border is nearby and Berlin is considerably closer than Warsaw, which helps explain why the city feels slightly different from the Poland many visitors may already know.

My Szczecin Must-Sees

If you're planning your first visit, put the Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle, Chrobry Embankment, Szczecin Philharmonic, Dialogue Centre Upheavals, St James Cathedral, Old Town, Kino Pionier 1907 and an Oder River cruise at the top of the list. Then leave some time simply to eat, wander the waterfront and enjoy the city's green spaces.

If Warsaw and Kraków are the Poland you already know, Szczecin might just be the Poland you weren't expecting — and perhaps its most underrated city. I can't wait to return again soon for the Christmas Markets. A huge thanks to Dorota, Frank and Symon for arranging such a lovely trip for me and a special; thanks to and Martin, Claudia and Ona for theirmgreat hospitality.

For full information on things to do and see in Szczecin check out - www.visitszczecin.eu